Pantanal

Before even getting off the train in the Bolivian border town, we were assaulted by a band of Pantanal tour guide operators. The Pantanal is the region of lowlands/jungle that occupy the surrounding area and make up a landmass about half the size of France. We eventually succumbed to their wheeling and dealing and agreed to `check out´ their company and hostel for a free ride through the border and into Corumba. As usual they tried to rip us off but eventually lowered the price by a 100 Reals (Brazil´s currency) for a 3 night stay at some farm out in the hinterlands. They threw lots of numbers at us, like 20% chances of seeing anacondas and jaguars and anacondas eating jaguars and pumas eating anacondas while crocs eat the pumas and whatever else they could come up with to get us out there. Knowing that this was all BS we signed up half heartidly. We spent the first night at The Camp, where you basically just hang around in hammocks and provide your body as target practice for mosquitoes. The next day we were supposed to move to The Farm, but instead spent yet another night at The Camp. Following that we moved off onto the farm where through some stubborness on our part and lack of organization on theirs, we stayed another 4 nights out there. At first we jumped on the opportunities to go on safaris and night safaris and walks but eventually we were resigned to hanging out at the farm and eating the fabulous meals they continued to cook us. One day was spent piranha fishing, which involves attaching chunks of lamb to a string and waiting for the angry little bastards to strike, although I had more fun swimming in the river rather than actually fishing it. Was kind of odd swimming in a place which people are pulling piranhas out of 10 feet away, but neither of our species seemed to mind. Went for a couple horsebacking trips through the area. Twas lots of fun racing around on some quality horses and attempting to herd the trillions of cattle that populate the region as well as racing the odd Emu. We tried desperately and in vain to get the superbowl out there along with the help of two americans, but were all dissapointed to find ourselves watching either endless soccer games or the Brazilian version of Wheel of Fortune. Met lots of good guys out there, including the zoologist, a crazy aussie with one eye and as mentioned the two american fellows. Im still on the lookout for the elusive irritating american that so many people have warned me of in the past, but have been unable to find him as of yet. The trip ended with another voyage through mosquito clouds and black flies, without any anaconda, puma or jaguar sightings. Today we hope to find some info on flights to Salvador and plan out the rest of our brazil time before the Rolling Stones concert on the 18th on Copacabana beach, it´s expected to draw over 2 million people, so it should be good! Ciao!

No pictures! Lo siento...but I have no camera with me at the momento!